The high noon sun was creating deep shadows on the people’s
faces on Monday,as I stood in the center of about two dozen pressing close
around me. When the villagers of Tindhara, a remote location 60 kilometers east
of Kathmandu, realized that I was writing down stories of their experiences in
the earthquake, many wanted to share and others were eager to listen.
Gripping my reporter’s notebook and pen, I fielded questions
to a Nepali pastor who translated for us, and he relayed back their stories.
Although the people were undoubtedly traumatized – 34 of their friends and
family had died in a village of just more than 1,000, and all of them had lost
their homes – they really wanted to talk about it.
I had never been in a situation like this before. As a journalist
for the past 15 years, I’ve done countless interviews, but never in a disaster
or in such a tightly pressed little crowd.
One man was carrying a boy with his entire leg in a cast.
Their house had collapsed on the boy and it took the father and several
neighbors a few hours to dig him out. Fortunately he was able to get medical
treatment. Another man’s arm was in a sling. He can’t move his fingers. He has
visited a doctor but that doctor apparently didn’t have any way to treat him.
Yet, he is one of the lucky ones, climbing out of the ruins of his house alive.
He plans to go to a hospital to get an X-ray and perhaps surgery to correct the
broken bone.
The most disturbing was a man who wanted to show me his torn
finger. It’s a gruesome injury. The tip of his finger is split in half and
terribly swollen – an open wound that hasn’t been disinfected and he hasn’t had
access to antibiotics. The finger is wrapped in a pitiful single strip of filthy
gauze, which is doing nothing to protect the gaping flesh from dirt and dust,
and he has nothing but a blister pack of painkillers.
He showed us the house that is now in ruins. During the
90-second earthquake, he pulled his wife and two grandchildren through the door
before the walls fell on his arm, slicing open his finger. They didn’t reach his mother in time. Three
days later the village pulled her body from the layers of bricks and planks of
wood that had buried her.
I could see why places like Tindhara hadn’t been reached by
government or aid groups more than 10 days after the earthquake. The six-hour
drive from Kathmandu was grueling – and we were only traveling 60
kilometers. Our convoy was made up of
three large flat-bed trucks carrying the rice, oil and salt, accompanied by a
four-wheel vehicle (I started out in that one) and then a handful of
motorcycles, each carrying two people. The total number of people going to
Tindhara was about 20 Nazarene pastors and leaders.
The plan was that a motorcycle would go ahead of the convoy to let us know of
any obstacles. The other motorcycles would travel around the three trucks. The
four-wheel drive vehicle brought up the
rear, carrying me and the videographer, Steve, the Nepal NCM coordinator Dilli,
and the Eurasia Regional NCM coordinator Jorg Eich. Our vehicle was intended to
spot any bags of rice or oil that might have toppled out of the trucks.
We were told the drive would be 2.5 to three hours. Since we
ran out the door at 5 a.m., no one ate breakfast or had tea or coffee. I
decided not to drink anything so that I wouldn’t be the cause of a complicated
stop for a bathroom on the way.
As we left the district of Kathmandu, the city looked
normal. All the buildings were intact and businesses were open. Fortunately the
NCM center is in a district of the city that was undamaged by the quake. We
started climbing into the hills surrounding the city, on roads that had been
paved years ago.
When we began descending into a wide, beautiful, green
valley, enclosed by terraced mountain sides where rural people were growing
rice and other vegetables, the conditions began to deteriorate. The climate in
Nepal is very dry because of the altitude. The roads were layered in a thick
red dust kicked up by the trucks. Being in the rear, we were the recipients of
the dust from all three trucks. The windshield, my camera gear and everything
else were soon coated. (When I washed my hair the next morning, the water ran a
dirty brown.)
At the bottom of the valley, people told us the roads were
only going to get much worse. The team decided to leave several motorcycles and
our small SUV. We divided up between the truck cabs and the backs of the trucks
with the rice and kept going.
As we climbed up the other side of the valley and into the
mountains, the dusty roads became more pitted, or lined with rough, sometimes
sharp river stones, or were washed out by streams created by rainstorms. We
rocked back and forth for the next three hours, my spine even cracking at
times. Often I was thrown into the driver (couldn’t have been more than a
teenager) or his assistant to my left (also a teenager). Once I thought to
myself, is this what the earthquake felt like?
We began to encounter collapsed houses, built of red brick
and mud, roofed with tiles or corrugated metal sheets. Sometimes a two- or
three-story house had just a large crack in the wall; other times one end of
the house had slid off, revealing the floors inside. Other times we passed
nothing but piles of bricks, wooden beams and roof tiles for hundreds of feet.
Once we were high enough, with a view down into some lower
hills, we could see entire villages flattened, dotted with sheets of plastic
stretched out to create temporary shelters.
Then we entered one or two villages where the already narrow
road was even tighter because the structures on either side had fallen into our
path. In these instances, we had to actually drive over what was left of the houses
to pass through.
After six hours of teeth-jarring travel, with only one stop
for a meal at a roadside restaurant at about 8:30 a.m., we entered Tindhara
around noon.
One of the motorcycles had gone on ahead and alerted the
village. The people had gathered in the narrow street, surrounded by rubble.
And the distribution began. I did my interviews.
At one point Steve and I went to visit one of the temporary
houses that the people were building by pulling the corrugated metal roofs from
the debris of their homes and propping on planks and branches to form crude
shelters. This family of 7 or 8 had managed to save some furniture and other
objects, such as purses, a New York Yankees ballcap, some blankets, some bags
of food and other items which they had dragged up the slope to higher ground in
their shelter. They were all sleeping in a space no more than 150 square feet.
In fact the furniture and things took up about 85% of that space, so we really
couldn’t figure out how/where they were stretching out to sleep. I think Steve
plans to make a short video about this.
Around 3 p.m., the last time I had eaten was 8:30 a.m., and
I had only sipped about one bottle of water all day. I realized I was in danger
of getting dehydrated, and getting a migraine due to lack of food and water. I
had a couple of granola bars, but I felt uncomfortable eating them in front of
these hungry people. I also didn’t know where to get more purified water. I
hadn’t used a toilet since 8:30 either, another sign I was getting dehydrated.
I was definitely thirsty.
Rev. Dilli told me that the village was named after a clean
mountain spring which would be safe to drink from. And I remembered that I had
brought water purification pills with me. So I walked down the road to three
cold streams of water coming out of a rock on a hillside and filled up my
one-liter water bottle, then put in the water purification tablet. I looked at
the instructions and saw that I had to wait 30 minutes for the pill to
completely clean the water.
I found Steve squatting in the shade and I joined him,
followed by Jorg. We had been working hard for several hours and the sun and
lack of water and food was getting to us. I reminded myself that this momentary
discomfort was nothing compared to what these people had endured for 8 or 9
days, and on top of that I had the knowledge that I was driving back into the
capital to eat a warm homecooked meal, drink all the water I wanted and sleep
in the shelter of a comfortable bed in a safe concrete building. By the way, the
spring water was quite good.
When the food distribution was finished, we all said goodbye
to the people and returned back the way we had gone, stopping at one point to
pick up a man who had broken his leg in the earthquake and wanted to visit a
hospital in Kathmandu, and stopping again at 5 p.m. to grab a small meal at a
roadside restaurant.
We arrived at the Nazarene center at 9 p.m. Then Jorg and
Steve and I stayed up until past 1 a.m. filing reports and pictures and
article.


























